I-cord selvege socks: (experiment til you get the combination you want for sizing; info given in pattern involved small stitches for the Icord and medium on a 54 slot cylinder for the sock using Schuss-Plus 100% wool yarn)

 Using three needles and all others removed from the cylinder, create a sufficient length of I-cord to fit the circumference of your leg at the height you want the sock.  You can make it too long and unravel back to the right length quite easily.  I knitted 100 rounds in small stitches.  Run a contrasting  thread through the last row of stitches to hold them until you graft.  Sew the ends together (likely using kitchener stitch) so they meet smoothly and work ends back.  (instructions for I-cord which does not require scrap yarn start are given at **)  Make two of these circles equal in size.

 To begin the sock, place a stitch on your first needle in front of your yarn carrier on top of your scrap yarn and so it will knit with your using yarn when you begin to crank.  (I used the side has mark as my initial starting point and made all my changes for stripes in the same location.)  Pull outward on the circle to determine the approximate opposing center and place a stitch on the needle across the cylinder from the first one.  Halfway between the two that are now on needles, put another one onto a needle.  Keep dividing your remaining portions in half so that the circle of Icord is evenly spaced around the cylinder, making sure every needle has a stitch on it when you are done.  When you have to crank ahead to finish up the last portion of the cylinder, PUSH DOWN with your fingernails on the Icord on the inside of the cylinder so it stays in contact with the top of the cylinder.  When all needles have stitches from the Icord on them, knit ahead to begin.  Be sure to push down firmly on this first round so all stitches knit.  That is critical.  (Of course, you also have the option of grafting the ones that miss after your sock is done if you don't succeed.)  Once this round is done, you can continue in stockinette to finish the sock in whatever manner you like.

 I used ten rounds per stripe in order to be able to determine later whether I would want to make the next one longer or shorter, and if so, by how much.  By using contrasting yarns in the first pair, you have a roadmap for subsequent pairs (which you might then not want to do in stripes).  Since I used the 54 slot cylinder and stretchy wool yarn, the final product fit nicely without being baggy.

 This edge could be used with ribbing by knitting one round to attach the Icord and then putting in your ribber needles on the second round.  This would be advised on cylinders with more needles since the socks can become overly wide and ribbing brings them in nicely.  The edge can also be used on flatwork that will be pieced.  (I used it when making a cami, for example.)

 The alternate method which I have used on flatwork is applied after your piece is knitted.  (For my cami, I used a picot edge on the bottom into which elastic was inserted and used this procedure for the top edge.)  Be sure you have planned ahead and used a high-contrast scrap yarn.  When your piece is removed from the machine, unravel scrap leaving only the final row of scrap yarn in your ending stitches for your piece.  You can use 3 or 4 needles. Do one pass of Icord to begin.  Holding your work sideways, pick up one stitch from the scrap yarn pulling the scrap yarn out each time you knit a stitch.  Knit one round per stitch unless you think it requires being a bit more snug.  On my cami, sometimes I used up two stitches instead of just one.  I had used a different machine for the Icord, and the stitches were larger than my original knitting, so I didn't want it to be baggy.  Using two at a time about every third needle took care of the sizing.  Note that the reverse was true on the sock edge, as I had smaller Icord than stockinette (100 rounds of Icord went onto 54 needles).  I found this method to be considerably slower than knitting the Icord first, but my cami required a considerable length of edging that could not be applied in the same way it was done on the sock.

 If there are pictures with this instruction sheet, note that the sock was knitted with the Icord in horizontal position with Icord as the first step.  The cami was knitted with the body of the work in horizontal position and forming the Icord vertically with Icord as the last step.  The top of the sock could also be knitted in the same was as was done for the cami.

 *To start Icord without scrap yarn: with only 3 or 4 needles remaining in the cylinder and the yarn carrier to your left, thread your yarn through your yarn pulling about 8" to the inside of the cylinder.  Using that end, wrap your needles starting at the rightmost needle clockwise, across the inside of the needles to leftmost needle wrapping counter-clockwise, and across the inside of the needles to the second needle from the right wrapping it clockwise.  You will either have a wrap on all needles (if using 3) or have a blank one (second from left if using 4).  Pass the end of the yarn downward to your fingers inside the cylinder and pull downward enough to keep stitches in contact with the top of the cylinder.  Be sure heel spring is attached.  Knit forward (counter-clockwise) repeatedly around the cylinder.  The missing stitch will begin on round two so that all needles have stitches.  If your yarn wants to miss the first needle, you may need to lower your yarn carrier slightly.  To graft ends, I found it easiest to thread the initial ending yarn and feed it down through the opposing end of the tube.  Then I used the final tail to graft the last stitches to the first for an invisible seam.  Ends were secured by shipping down a wale of the Icord and back again so no knots were used.  There will be a slightly thicker portion in that area, but if done neatly it will barely be noticed without extreme scrutiny.