Set up cylinder with ribber dial slot at half-pitch so a rib needle will line up between two empty slots.  You will have a needle and then two blank spaces all around the cylinder.  Put a needle in every other slot of ribber dial so as to end up with 1X1 ribbing.

1.  Rib a few rounds in scrap yarn to be sure everything is set properly.

2.  Attach working yarn (WY); knit one round.

3.  Switch ribber to OUT position; knit one round.

4.  Return ribber to IN position; knit 20 rounds.

5.  On front half of cylinder, remove rib needles by placing stitch onto an added cylinder needle.  Thus, you will end up with 2 needles and a space across the heel portion; top of foot will remain in 1X1 ribbing with two empty slots between each cylinder needle (where the rib needle is located).  Knit 5 rounds.

6.  Raise rear needles; remove drive pin; attach heel tension spring.

7.  Knit heel.  (You will end up going one needle inside the heel hash mark on one side and even with the hash mark on the other.  Ignore the spaces between needles as if there was no space there.)  Use whichever heel you prefer ending at center front.  (I use the flatbed style.)

8.  Remove tension spring (optional); replace drive pin; put rear needles back into work.  Knit 10 rounds stopping in center front.

9.  Hook tension spring if you removed it; remove drive pin; knit toe same as heel.

10. On final round to end sock, leave a long tail for sewing (about 12") and sever yarn; at side hash mark, pull yarn down between edge of ribber and cylinder and attach scrap yarn (SY) so that it will knit on precisely the following needle.

11. Knit 4-5 rounds in SY.  Remove extra needles in heel portion and return rib needles to ribber dial as was set up for first sock.  Knit 3-4 more rounds in SY.

12.  Attach WY at side hash mark to begin second sock.  Repeat 1-11.

13.  Remove from machine by knitting off in SY.