CSM Mitten on 60 slot cylinder:  (54 in parentheses)

Set up with scrap yarn:

On the 60, set up rib needles in scrap, attach working yarn, create selvedge (knit one row, move out of work, knit two rounds -- with tension spring on -- return to IN work) and rib 24 rows (more if you want a long cuff).  (On 54, knit two rounds in working yarn, rehang round one on round two; put ribber needles in.)  As a substitute, you might want to use a mock rib cuff or perhaps a hem-top with picot edge. 

Remove ribber needles on the next round counting it as round one and do 15 rows. (I prefer these with the tension spring on.)  Stop with carrier slightly left of the front. 

Right mitten:  Lift up needles starting with the 4th (3rd) needle behind right side hash mark and also around the rear of the cylinder.  Crank ahead far enough to enable you to lift remaining needles around the cylinder so that 20 are left (which will be off-centered to the right side).  (If you are making these for really large hands, leave up 22, but 20 would fit most adults.) 

Knitting back and forth and using the heel tension spring, knit 32 rows (more if needed).  You will need to use something to pull down on these stitches as it becomes longer than the remaining attached stitches. Pull down securely at edges of thumb piece. Cut yarn with about 8-10" tail.  On first trials, knit off on scrap yarn.  Once you know how many rows work for you, thread the tail and take off the 20 stitches by running the tail through them.  Using the side edges of the piece you just created, put ten stitches on from the left side and ten from the right side to fill in the front of the cylinder.  (This should use up 1/2 the length of the piece--remainder is the thumb.)  I like to take one last stitch from either side and put it on top of the one from the opposing side so no holes will form in your join.  Therefore one of the center needles will have two stitches on it and all others will have one.  Before putting the rear needles back into work, crank around to the left side ready to start into the thumb stitches.  Thread yarn and feed it between the last needle that is up and the first one that is down.  Hold on to this end and the thumb as you will need pull down these stitches (or attach heel fork to thumb).  Push down all rear needles.  If you released it, put the tension spring back in work. To prevent a hole from forming at the edges of the thumb, you also might want to pull a bar from the ajoining next lower stitch over the first needle at each side of the thumb forming a Y there.

Knit desired length of hand--likely 32 rounds.  (I use my index finger to measure, as the forming of the final end will give extra length for the middle fingers.)  On your first mitten, put the end of your index finger touching the edge of the thumb section by sticking your hand down inside the machine, fingers downward, with your thumb outside of the cylinder where the thumb part closes.  When the edge of the cylinder is even with the crotch of your thumb and index finger, your glove is the perfect length.  Note the number of rounds and make the next one to correspond.  (I have a good-sized hand and long nails and used 32 rounds.)

Use whatever "toe" finish you like best.  Here's mine:

Stopping in the front of the cylinder, pull up rear needles from hash mark to hash mark LESS one on each side.  (In other words, leave down the front half of the cylinder PLUS one on each side.)  Crank to rear of cylinder.  Lift up TWO needles on the right side.  With heel spring attached, crank to left.  Lift up TWO needles; crank to right.  From this point on, lift up ONE needle at leading edge each row until you have the needles out of work to form the first half of the heel.  Pull up needles until you come to your heel hash marks.  You will at this point have the carrier on the right side of your cylinder.  Use finger pull-down throughout first half of "toe."

Attach heel weight or fork.  Push down first needle on the right of right hash mark.  Put the yarn behind the needle and be sure latch is open or watch latch to make sure it catches if you do not choose to wrap.  Knit to left.  Push down first needle on left; knit to right.  Continue until you are on the last pass which will be going left to right.  Push down all rear needles and make one round ending at the right hash mark.  Cut yarn about six inches below intake hole to yarn topper.  Tie on scrap.  Feed through between the two needles at the hash mark leaving the end tail for sewing up the “toe.”  Knit on several rows of scrap yarn and set back up for second mitten.  (Or, on 54, begin selvedge in working yarn.)

For LEFT mitten, move the thumb piece so it is on the left instead of the right when you form that piece on the front of the cylinder.  This time, on the left side of the cylinder you will have 4 (3) needles up behind the side hash mark plus 16 (17) more toward the right; the other needles will all be down.  The remainder is the same from this point on.

To finish, run the tail of the yarn at the end of the thumb through the last row of stitches and pull tight.  Sew down to the crotch of thumb and index finger.  Kitchener stitch across end ("toe").  Run the beginning tail down a wale of stitches and cut off short.  Wash and block.

*To help pull down on the side edges when forming the thumb, I fold a piece of yarn in half and knot it.  Place it across the thumb stitches and stuff the ends down through each side.  Use this yarn bridge to pull down on the knitting as the thumb grows in length.  You can also use forks, a heel hook,  folded wire, or a large latch tool or dental tool (bent on both ends to hold weight).

(Please don't just bunch the end of the mitten into a gathered blob.  It's SO classy when done with a nice, neat "toe" closure using the kitchener stitch.)  DO customize with stripes, patterns and embellishments!