Set up a mock-rib configuration appropriate for the slots in your cylinder and type of yarn you are using, usually 1:2 or 1:3, in scrap yarn.  Starting at right side hash mark, begin working yarn; knit one round on loose stitches.  Knit a second round at regular stitch size, stopping 1.5" before the side hash to enable working in FRONT of your yarn carrier.  Starting with first needle behind hash mark, hang bar from row one on top of round two all the way around the cylinder moving ahead slightly to finish up the section behind the yarn carrier.

 Knit leg 30 to 75 rounds depending on height desired. 

Without changing configuration, stop at front of cylinder and go right into heel process.  Attach heel spring.  Lift all rear needles less one on each side.  (Leave down all needles plus one on each side.)  Knit to back.  Pull up two needles, one behind hash mark and one in front, on right side.  Knit to left.  Pull up two needles, one behind hash mark and one in front, on left side.  Knit to right.  Continue back and forth pulling up ONE needle at beginning of each row until you are at hash marks indicating finish of heel.  You will likely be inside of the mark on one side, depending on how you set up your needles initially.  From the left side on the last decrease row, and before you go to the right, push DOWN the last needle on the right.  Knit across.  Continue putting down the last needle in each row until you are finished with the heel and ending right at the hash mark (between the loop of the first two needles raised).  Push down rear needles on this last pass from left to right and continue to knit foot.

 Repeat heel process for toe.  Kitchener stitch toes making sure you match up numbers of stitches on each side of the closure.  (They do not need to match the "stripe" or mock rib sections, just equal numbers.)

 These socks need to be blocked, as the top will roll slightly if you don't.  For diabetics, nursing home patients, swollen feet or legs, extra wide legs, etc, make tops short--30 to 40 rows.  For traction, you might want to add silicone bathroom caulk by pressing it into the sole stitches.  (Let dry overnight.)

 Because there is no ribbing, there is no friction on the inside of the sock.  Thus you can use your thicker yarns more easily also.  The more elastic your yarn is, the better. 

To make an extremely small sock or bootie, use the same basic pattern using every other needle and a yarn that will felt easily.  (This works on any cylinder.)  They will be very loose when first knitted.  Put them in the washer to shrink and felt; shape to dry.  Decorate if you wish.  Of course, you can also make them out of a non-felting yarn, but they will be larger with big stitches.  I use about 20 rows for the leg and 8-12 for the foot.  These take less than ten minutes each with additional time for closing the toe.