Panties for tights:

Materials used: 60 slot cylinder; to adapt pattern to other cylinders, determine how many stitches you can use which will allow reversing at the back of the cylinder.  On the 60 slot, it was 42.  You will need to experiment with your yarn to decide how many decreases you will need to get the shaping you want.  It is suggested making a portion on a 60 slot cylinder first in order to get the overall plan of the parts and shaping.  Sewing of four seams about 6" long is required for the bottom section.  All knitting is done on the machine, including I cord.  If you do not use your heel spring, remember to pull your yarn flush with the side of your piece on each pass.  On thick yarns, it is easier to knit without the heel spring.

Part A: same for all pieces: (best done with heel spring in use)

Using 42 needles (or number specified per pattern section), get mesh going with scrap yarn, then attach good yarn beginning left to right.

Knit 8 rows back and forth.

Move every other stitch to nextdoor needle across cylinder.

Knit one row, checking to make sure a stitch is formed on each empty needle.

Knit total of 8 rows; rehanging row one on row eight.

Knit 28 rows finishing on left side of machine ready to go to the right.

Center front or bottom:

Move first and last stitch over to nextdoor needle and remove outer two needles on EVERY pass until you have 22 remaining in work.  Knit 10 rows on 22 which forms the front crotch.  (For a higher bikini style, you may want to make the crotch longer by a few rows or decrease on one side at a time instead of both.)  Leaving a tail for joining to other crotch piece, knit off on scrap yarn and set aside.

Front sides (will require 2 triangles):

Using 22 needles and the same method as part A for the hem and knit 4 rows.  On EACH following row, decrease by one needle on the RIGHT edge only.  The piece thus formed will be straight on the left side and angular on the right.  Keep eliminating a right side needle on every row until the last needle and pass the end of the yarn through the last stitch.  Set aside.

Replace 22 needles and repeat for other side of front.  On that piece, leave needles in place on the right side and remove from the LEFT only (on every row) so it is a mirror of above piece.

Sew along the straight edge on each side of the front piece to the point where the piece begins to angle, thus enlarging the front for full coverage.  Work in ends.

Center back (butt piece):

Continue from end of part A so you have 52 rows.  Decrease by one needle on each side of subsequent rows until you have 24 needles remaining in work.  Knit 10 rows.  Decrease one on each edge again.  Knit 4 rows.  Leave a short tail and knit off on scrap yarn.

Kitchener stitch crotch pieces together.

Back sides:

Using 22 needles, knit as in part A.  Decrease at LEADING EDGE (not both sides) on RIGHT side every row  until you are down to last needle.  Do not decrease on return row or left edge.  Run yarn tail through last stitch.  This triangle will be twice as long as the front ones were.  Sew straight edge to side of back piece ending with the last stitch coming in line with the first decrease where you knitted 48 straight rows.  Work in ends.

Knit a corresponding triangle for the other side, reversing the shaping by removing needles only on the leading edge from the left side rather than the right.  Sew to back piece.  Work in ends.

Ties: (or opt for elastic)

Using 3 needles, knit 200 rounds of I cord;  repeat so you have one set for the front and one for the back.  Thread through top hem and tie at sides.   You might want to tie at the front instead.  If so, double the length of  Icord made all in one piece.  Sew the sides of the panties together and thread the Icord (or elastic) so the ends come out in the top of the front.

You may use these also for the tops of tights if you knit thigh-high stockings and graft them to the panties.